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Cycling from Innsbruck to Verona
Over the years, it has earned a leading role in the panorama of Italian cycling routes, thanks to the quality of its infrastructure and services but also to the beauty of the landscapes and cities it crosses. I am talking about the Adige cycle path, which links Bolzano to Verona.
And if you want to extend the route, the most direct way is to go down from the Brenner Pass and follow the Eisack Valley. We have ridden this route in different seasons, enjoying the warm spring sunshine, the summer breeze and the autumn colors of the woods: there is no time more suitable than any other… even in winter (before the snow covers the path) it could be evocative to ride in these areas!
Innsbruck and the Tyrol by Bike
Just over the border, nestled among the high peaks of the Alps, Innsbruck watches over the slow-moving waters of the river for which it is named. It is the ideal starting point for a journey south along the Sunshine Cycle Path, which enters Italy after crossing the Brenner Pass. The capital of North Tyrol welcomes you with its Golden Roof and the Central European air typical of cities beyond the Alps.
To reach the Italian-Austrian border, you can follow the Eurovelo 7 long-distance route or take the train that stops in the town of Brenner: the station is just a few meters from the start of the bike path, and this is where we started pedaling… not before enjoying a good coffee!
From Brenner to Bolzano along the Eisack Valley
The crossing into Italy coincides with the entrance into the Eisack Valley and the beginning of the slow but inexorable descent from the Alps to the Po Valley. Part of the route follows the river until it joins the Adige river at Bolzano, but the first part of the route follows an old railway line, which was abandoned in 1999 when it was replaced by a long tunnel and turned into a cycle-pedestrian path. The route follows the old tracks into the Fleres Valley, a side valley of the Eisack Valley, and then leaves it to reach Colle Isarco. We met a mother with two small children who immediately challenged me. I have to surrender to their ingenuity and the good excuse is the bucolic South Tyrolean landscapes that deserve a photo stop…see you guys further down the valley!
A short climb is the only bump before reaching Vipiteno, which the route crosses. The small town is well worth a visit, and after passing under the majestic Tower of the Twelve, you will soon find yourself out of the traffic and in a protected area. Castel Tasso and Castel Pietra are typical examples of the numerous castles from different periods that can be found in these valleys. We will lose count before we reach the end of the first day of cycling.
Between one pedal stroke and the next, we reach Fortezza, which owes its name to the huge Austro-Hungarian wartime building that dominates the town. Close to the fortress is the “junction” that would lead to the Val Pusteria, but that is not our destination today. We continue and in a short time, with a rather abrupt descent, we find ourselves at the gates of Brixen. If you like good wines, you should visit the ancient abbey of Novacella. The cycle path follows the course of the Eisack river, staying on the edge of the old town. Brixen is also worth discovering, so leave your bike for a while and explore the narrow streets on foot.
The Eisack is swollen by the waters of the Rienza coming down from the Val Pusteria, and over the millennia it has carved out the valley, which narrows and becomes almost a canyon. Not far from the narrowest point is Chiusa, a name that explains its position and historical role as a customs town. Every kilometer is a discovery, and after the Sabiona Monastery, the slopes of the valley are home to the Trostburg Castle, which overlooks Ponte Gardena. The bike path in this section is atmospheric, meandering along the valley floor and following the river. This section also follows the old track of a now abandoned railroad, the tunnels of which are illuminated by special photocells as we pass. The provincial capital is now close at hand, and all we have to do is pass through Prato all’Isarco and Cardano to reach the city center, staying practically always on the bike path. After about 100 km of riding through the Alps, we reach the first town of any size on the route. The local government has invested heavily in cycling and Bolzano is rightly called the “bicycle city”. You can reach the heart of the city, Piazza Walther, by staying in the saddle and stopping to admire the towering Gothic cathedral with its green and gold roof. Piazza delle Erbe and the famous porticoes are more pleasant to visit on foot, so it is advisable to leave your bike in one of the many designated areas and continue on your own two feet.
The Adige Valley: from Bolzano to Verona
Bolzano is an important crossroads for cycling in the province, where the Isarco, Adige (to the Val Venosta and Verona) and Oltradige cycle routes start and end.
Continuing south, you reach the foot of Castel Firmiano, which dominates the town from a hilltop. Just below the castle, the Eisack river flows into the Adige river, and so does the bike path. It continues southwards, leaving behind the traffic (albeit composed and limited) of the city to cross vast agricultural areas. The Adige Valley is famous for the excellent wines produced along its entire length: further north, Gewurztraminer takes center stage, while further south, Teroldego takes over. If you decide to stop at a winery, remember to drink in moderation: alcohol and muscles don’t mix very well when it comes to cycling!
Before leaving South Tyrol and entering Trentino, we pass by the station of Ora, which was once the starting point of the Val di Fiemme railway, now a prestigious cycling route (unpaved but suitable for bikes). Once again, there are no climbs and the route continues along the flat towards Trento, leaving behind the Rotalian plain and the Foci dell’Avisio biotope, another tributary of the Adige river. The cycle path follows the river all the way and enters the city along the river. A short detour allows you to reach Piazza Duomo, at the foot of Neptune, while you hardly have to leave the cycle path to visit the MUSE, Trento’s Science Museum.
The pedaling is easy, so you can continue south past the big BiciGrill in the capital. You flank the Caproni airport (small and not very busy) and then head towards another city that deserves a short detour: Rovereto. But before you get there, you can admire the majesty of Castel Beseno on the orographic left of the Adige Valley: if you want to go up, you can visit the castle with little effort.
The Trentino countryside is well maintained and it will be a pleasure to ride through the vineyards. In Rovereto, staying on the cycle path, you have two options:
- continue south along the Sunshine/Eurovelo 7 cycle path along the Adige river. In this case, you will soon enter the Veneto region, where you can cycle to Affi and Rivoli, then take the cycle path along the Biffis Canal and reach Verona from Bussolengo.
- From Bussolengo you can reach Verona by taking a detour to the west, crossing the gentle S. Giovanni Pass and descending to Lake Garda at Torbole, where you can take the ferry to Peschiera; from Peschiera you can get back on your bike to reach the city of Romeo and Juliet and the Arena, ending this few-day tour of the Alps. This option is perhaps more attractive because it allows you to change your point of view, the panorama and the landscape, while at the same time enjoying a climate softened by the breeze from Lake Garda.
If you want to follow in our footsteps and ride the Sunshine Bike Path from Innsbruck to Verona, you can rely on Girolibero and its tours:
